ARTS and CRAFTS
October 28, 2010
Kasuti embroidery from Karnataka
by Tejaswini, S.Ajjewadeyarnath Shubhas Chouk
Doddapet, Ranebennur 581115, Haveri Dist., Karnataka
Ph: 9731744589 / 9739709888
(I do not take orders. Pl contact the artists directly.)
The craftsmen involved in kasuti embroidery of Karnataka, have no
recourse to external aids like tracing the design and build the motifs
even as he is working the stitches. Design depends on the texture of the
cloth, as working the embroidery involves the counting of threads. Four
distinct stitches are practised in the craft: the 'gavnti' or double
running stitch, the 'murgai' or zigzag running stitch, the 'negi' or
ordinary running stitch and the 'menthi' or cross stitch. Kasuti, which
flourished in Chalukya and Vijayanagar kingdoms of the 15th and 16th
centuries, is rich in symbolic motifs of court life and temple
ceremonials. Traditionally, the needle work is done by the women of the
region for their personal use, on hand-woven saris. 'Irkali' saris as
they are called are woven with 9-10 inches of warp thread left loose at
the pallav end. The craftsmen uses these extra threads to work the
embroidery, the colours for the work being taken from the base itself.
The total effect, when complete, though rich, is very beautiful and
subtle.
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